Answers to Frequently Asked Questions about samovars.

The valve, or spigot on a samovar is of a very simple design. It consists of two parts: the spigot key and the spout (there are no gaskets and o-rings, etc.) When these two parts don't fit together a leak will occur. To get rid of a leak, or reduce it to a manageable drip, first try to "seat" the key better. Do this by supporting the spout from below with one hand, and gently yet firmly pressing down on the key with the other hand, while at the same time moving it back and forth just a bit.

Often the valve works better (doesn't leak, or leaks less) when the key is on one side or the other of the center postion. To check this, move the key back and forth slowly between the center "ON" position and the two "OFF" positions on either side of it. You may find a spot that works the best.

Because of the simple valve system samovars are often used with a sump bowl, or drip bowl, beneath the spout to catch the drips. This is especially true of those produced and used in the past when milling the two pieces of the valve was done using hand tools that are considered crude by today's standards. However, though the tools may have changed, the design of the valve hasn't changed, thus the last resort to fixing the leak (after trying out the two steps above) involves making and using a crude "handmill".

Using a small piece of 400 grit (VERY VERY FINE) sandpaper form a tunnel, or socket that fits snugly around the entire length of the portion of the spigot key that fits into the spout. This socket will be conical to match the shape of the key. Apply even pressure and slowly turn the key inside the paper a couple of times, moving in and out just a bit at the same time. The idea is to sand off a bit of the key evenly, so as not to create any flat spots. Dust it off, place it in the spout and try it out. Don't over do this step. If it doesn't seem to be making things better after 2 or 3 times it probably won't work. If it does seem to be getting better, work slowly and methodically to get it to where the leak just stops (you can't improve on a leak that doesn't leak!). NEVER sand the inside of the spout!!

Usually, after many years of service the two parts of the samovar valve either wear out and a small leak occurs (thus the use of a drip bowl), or a fine mineral deposit forms around the parts creating a tight seal (for these samovars the use of a sump bowl is purely for ornamentation or for tradition).

Electric samovars use an electric coil to heat up water. The electric coil in European made samovars is rated for 220 volts, however most will work fine at 110 volts (the US standard). In any case, a Voltage Converter is not necessary to operate a 220V samovar. Radio Shack sells an "Outlet Adapter" stock # 273-1406D. It will not convert the voltage but simply adapt the two large round prongs on the end of the samovar cord to fit into the two flat rectangular outlet holes used in US homes. Because you are using 110V there will be an increase in the time needed to heat the water (this can be offset by starting with hot or warm water). To use your electric samovar simply pour water inside, plug it in and wait for it to heat up. This will be your supply of hot water with which to make tea.

If your electric samovar has a "float device" that moves up and down with the water level, this is an automatic shutoff switch that prevents the coil from burning out when there is little or no water surrounding it. Most electrics we've seen do not have the float, in which case it is up to the operator to be sure that the coil always has enough water around it to heat up, otherwise it can burn itself out.

We hope this helps you to better understand and enjoy your samovar.

Maison Russe
The Russian Shop